It helps to build pressure in the heads in particular and also in the block to some degree. Most of every manufacturer I have dealt with would much rather you call them, rather then read comic books and unvetted web pages. Write out your questions down first, before you call and take notes. Time will tell.ĭo your own research, call people on the phone. Since I drive my crap all year round, in temps that get well below freezing and can get to zero (and yes I drive it when it's that cold) I may have to use a thermostat. The only functions the thermostat has are to speed up cold start warm up, and keep the engine at a constant temperature so the heater functions correctly. It is a flow RESTRICTION, and we know RESTRICTION is bad. Then make your decision.īTW, the other thing I learned is the LIE of the thermostat! Most people think you need one to keep coolant in the radiator so it can dump heat. I would say to anyone looking at cooling systems to spend some time and learn about fluid dynamics and heat transfer. Places less load on the head gaskets as far as sealing coolant. Think about that, in and of itself! No pressure (or very little) will make the likelihood of a massive leak even less. I have done all I can do to increase flow, and decrease pressure. I will post my results here, good or bad. But, you MUST have PRESSURE with water based coolants.Īfter looking at all these things in more depth than I have posted here, I decided to try Evans coolant. You MUST have pressure with ANY water based coolant to increase the boiling point. A 4 core radiator is even less efficient. 2 cores of 1.5 inch diameter is better than 3 cores of 1 inch diameter. You can call any quality radiator manufacturer and they will tell you the same thing. The third thing is the number and size of cores. You need as much cooling AREA as you can get. Here is a bit of what I found.įlow is EVERYTHING. There is so much outright BULLSHIT about cooling out there, that I FORCED myself to do some study.
#Evans coolant cleans system professional
Then, in the last issue of the rag that ebooger writes for, someone from Evans wrote to ebooger, and rather than address Evans in a professional journalist way, he was a snarky jackass. I lost what little respect for ebooger I had. But what is even more appalling than not testing a product and bashing the product, is jumping on the web, and using a COMPETITORS testing, without checking on the COMPETITORS work! Pay attention to who is FUNDING the article. If for sure it's actually true, that's not good. One increase is immediate from higher head temps, and the other is a buildup over time but both eventually requiring higher octane fuel. I saw a 4-5 point increase in required octane rating simply because of the two traits of the Evans coolants. This means one of the reasons people use aluminum heads (for lower octane usage without preignition) is pointless, as when the head temps get higher preignition becomes a problem even with aluminum heads. NUMBER TWO, is that with Evans coolant "iron and aluminum" cylinder head temperatures are higher by about 140 degrees. If used with aluminum heads that buildup on the surfaces causes the heat transfer from the head to the coolant to drop dramatically over time causing hot spots that make steam bubbles in the engine and therefore can cause crystallization of the aluminum.
NUMBER ONE, is that the chemicals in the Evans products sticks to and builds up on aluminum parts and this wouldn't be too big of a deal unless you have aluminum heads. At first glance the Evans products look pretty nice although somewhat expensive for coolant, but a real high boiling temp and no pressure in the cooling system from expansion like other coolants sounded pretty tempting.īUT, after looking into it farther and some online research I found 2 major issue's with it.
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